BEN'S PICK: DOMAINE DE CHEVALIER'S CAPTIVATING BORDEAUX BLANC
Ben Giliberti, CW Director of Wine Education
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About 10 years ago, the princely Domaine de Chevalier of Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux, purchased a superb old-vine vineyard in the heart of nearby Sauternes. Although the Sauternes region’s claim to fame is Château d’Yquem and other late-harvest sweet whites, owner Olivier Bernard had a different idea. He set out to make an affordable white Bordeaux in the elegant, bone-dry style of Domaine de Chevalier. I am pleased to report that he has succeeded brilliantly: 2022 Clos des Lunes Lune d'Argent Bordeaux Blanc, on sale this week for just $15.99 on case purchases of 12 bottles or more ($16.99 for 1-11 btls; reg. $21.99). The quality, value, and, most importantly, the captivating style are exceptional.
In one sense, the concept of making excellent dry whites on the superb terroir of Sauternes was well proven, at least on a small scale. Château d'Yquem has long produced minuscule quantities of a bone-dry white called "Y" (pronounced "ee GREC" in French), which enjoys prestige and exclusivity approaching that of the hallowed Haut-Brion Blanc. "Y" was followed by superb dry whites from other prominent Sauternes and Barsac châteaux, such as "S" (Château Suduiraut), "C" (Château Coutet), and "R" (from the Lafite-owned Château Rieussec).
I adore these “Letter” wines. Made primarily from the richly constituted Sémillon grape instead of the ubiquitous Sauvignon Blanc, they offer a unique and captivating expression of what a great Bordeaux Blanc can be. In the 2022 Lune d'Argent, I was overjoyed to find the magical Sémillon-infused style of the Letter wines at an everyday affordable price.
Why Sémillon? Explains Olivier: "People often say that Pauillac is the natural home of Cabernet Sauvignon, and Pomerol is the natural home of Merlot. I propose that Sauternes is the natural home of Sémillon. Only in the terroir of Sauternes is Sémillon so dense and pure, yet at the same time so vibrant, finely nuanced and complex."
But now, it gets a bit technical. Sauternes is made by a natural process called botrytisation – the famed Noble Rot – which forms on the grape skins and concentrates the juice to reach the sugar levels needed to make sweet wine.
Dry white wines are not made this way. In fact, botrytisation is rigorously avoided to maintain freshness and balance. The key is timing. Botrytisation occurs late in the harvest; just before it sets in, the grapes reach the point of optimal ripeness for dry white wines. The challenge for Olivier and his team is that this optimal window is much shorter in Sauternes than elsewhere in Bordeaux owing to its more humid climate.
It takes a great winemaker and a great winemaking team to catch that moment. The success of Lune d’Argent is owed in large measure to the amount of TLC Olivier has been willing to lavish on a wine that sells for 1/10 the price of Domaine de Chevalier Blanc and an even tinier fraction of Château d'Yquem’s "Y". As at Domaine de Chevalier, the harvest at Clos des Lunes is carried out entirely by hand with extreme care, requiring multiple passes through the vines as the grapes reach maturity.
Explains Olivier, "This level of precision throughout the picking and sorting processes is the only way we can obtain the perfectly ripe fruit needed to make a wine of the quality of Clos des Lunes d’Argent. With great wine, no matter where it is made, there are no shortcuts."
Here are the details:
** 2022 Clos des Lunes d'Argent Bordeaux Blanc is made from 70% Sémillon and 30% Sauvignon Blanc. Following a slow, gentle pressing, vinification occurs in small thermo-regulated vats. Aging takes place on the fine lees over three months in French oak barrels, with regular batonnage (lees stirring).
** Olivier describes the vineyards as a “mosaic of five terroirs” located in Sauternes and nearby Barsac. The grapes from Sauternes offer power and depth, while those of Barsac provide freshness, elegance, and finesse.
** Note the stylish bottle. It’s modeled on an 18th-century bottle in Domaine de Chevalier’s cellar. |