While marginally higher in residual sugar on paper than this year's "Soil to Soul" cuvee, the Strubs' 2011 Niersteiner Bruckchen Riesling Kabinett tastes less sweet thanks to site-typical relatively high acidity as well as pronouncedly fruit skin chew; nut oil and subtly cyanic fruit pit piquancy; and mouthwatering, scallop-like salinity and savor. There is a hint of textural creaminess but delightful levity as well as succulent, formidably persistent juiciness of fresh plum and cherry. This sensational value should remain delightful for at least the next 12-15 years.
They are a small estate of 5.8 hectares. Extraordinarily aromatic, vigorous wines from a vintner who grows more commanding each vintage. They have a remarkable reconciliation of weight, solidity and buoyancy. They tend to run stony, as is the Rheingau typeâwhen itâs true! And they are fastidiously specific in their site characteristics. The dry wines are better than most! Still, almost none of Johannesâ wines taste âsweet.â They have the coiled power of a tightly closed fist. They are intensely fragrant, as though they wished to convince you of something. They are like Wachau wines; they crave oxygen, and they do show their best ice cold.