Piedmont Wine between $25 and $50

The 2009 Barbera d?Alba Vignota emerges from the glass with layers of radiant fruit. Dark berries, flowers and sweet spices come together beautifully in this fleshy, engaging Barbera. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2014.

A juicy red, bursting with cherry, raspberry, underbrush and spice flavors. The balance is there, but this needs time to integrate more fully. A woodsy eucalyptus element emerges on the finish, with echoes of sweet fruit. Best from 2014 through 2025.

The 2007 Gattinara bursts from the glass with sweet red cherries, tobacco, incense and grilled herbs. There is an immediacy to the 2007 that is quite appealing. At the same time, the firm Nebbiolo tannins are present and serve to balance the wine's more overt leanings. I very much like the way the 2007 continues to open up in the glass. Overall this looks to be a tasty, early-drinking Gattinara from Travaglini. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017.