2009 Loire Valley Wine between $10 and $25

Although the Loire is best known for white wines, it also makes three zesty reds from Cabernet Franc — Bourgueil, Chinon, and Saumur-Champigny. Bourgueil (pronounced ‘boor-gheel’) occupies an agreeable middle ground, not quite as delicate as Chinon, but not as emphatic as Saumur-Champigny. This Bourgueil takes advantage of the warm 2009 vintage, which gave producer Xavier Barc leave to harvest fully ripe Cabernet Franc grapes, a rarity in the Loire. Made in a fruit-forward, Cru Beaujolais style, with lots of cedar n’ spice Cabernet Franc notes, this offering makes for a snappy and savory summer red. Serve lightly chilled.