2007 Piedmont Wine

The 2007 Barolo is inviting, sweet and open, yet has plenty of underlying tannins to provide support. It shows terrific balance in a style that reconciles the traditionalist leanings of this bottling with the ripe quality of the year. Sweet hints of tobacco, spices, leather and herbs add complexity on the textured yet grippy finish. Pio Cesare's straight Barolo doesn't seem to get the attention or spotlight it deserves, but it has truly been one of Piedmont's under the radar jewels for some time. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2022.

The 2007 Gattinara bursts from the glass with sweet red cherries, tobacco, incense and grilled herbs. There is an immediacy to the 2007 that is quite appealing. At the same time, the firm Nebbiolo tannins are present and serve to balance the wine's more overt leanings. I very much like the way the 2007 continues to open up in the glass. Overall this looks to be a tasty, early-drinking Gattinara from Travaglini. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017.