Perfumes of blackberry and currant follow through to a full-bodied palate, with fine tannins and a long finish. A little tight now, but stylish. Needs time. Best after 2008. 2,540 cases made.
An absolute delight and an incredible bargain for lovers of classic Brunello di Montalcino. Brilliant and lively ruby red in color; the noble bouquet captures the essence of Brunello di Montalcino, with scents of wild berries, violets, truffles and a hint of smoky roast nuts. On the palate, the vibrant, precisely focused fruit has a vibrant, ringing, wild cherry complexity reminiscent of a Chambolle-Musigny or Volnay; however, the deep forest, roast chestnut, and plum tart elements of classic Brunello announce themselves strongly as the wine opens in the glass. Although this wine has at least 10-15 years of aging potential, the unusually forward fruit and impressively polished tannins make it delicious to drink now. For maximum enjoyment, it should be decanted approximately one hour before drinking.
The 2004 Fontalloro (100% Sangiovese) comes across as fresher and brighter than the Rancia. Light on its feet, this graceful, delicate wine opens with sweet, perfumed aromatics that meld into raspberries, flowers, spices and a touch of sweet oak that lingers on the finish. It offers remarkable clarity and precision in a pure, focused style, with superb balance and finessed tannins. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2019. There is not too much more I can say about the wines of Felsina and proprietor Giuseppe Mazzocolin, except that they are reference point wines for anyone who wants to discover the essence of contemporary Sangiovese from Chianti Classico. This is a compelling set of new releases from Mazzocolin and long-time consulting oenologist Franco Bernabei, one of the giants of modern Tuscan oenology. Even better, the wines remain very fairly priced. I was amused when another producer complained to me recently about Felsina's prices. They were far too low, he insisted. I also tasted the wines of Felsina's second property Castello di Farnatella. The wines are competently made, but lack the distinctiveness of the Felsina wines. -- Antonio Galloni
Plush aromas of black cherry and blackberry. Full-bodied, with soft, silky tannins and a long, delicious finish. There's fresh acidity and lots of subtle flavor on the finish. Still needs a little time to open. Best after 2010. 7,000 cases made. JS
Needs air to coax out the superrich vein of black cherry and ripe plum fruit, with hints of fresh earth and herbs. Full-bodied, with a supersilky texture that firms up the finish. There's lots of new oak, but this is well-constructed. Drink now. 2,500 cases made.
Shows freshly sliced plum on the nose, with hints of mushroom and wood. Full-bodied, with firm tannins and a fruity berry aftertaste. A little tight still, but with balanced and refined tannins. Needs time. Best from 2011 through 2015. 3,000 cases made. JS