2004 Wine Over $100

Conterno-Fantino's 2004 Barolo Vigna del Gris offers an enticing array of floral aromatics that lead to sensations of candied cherries, small red fruits, spices and marzipan. With air, this sensual, feminine Barolo opens to reveal notable inner perfume and superb length. As is usually the case, the wine doesn-t quite have the stuffing to balance its tannins and it does dry out just a bit on the finish, but it is nevertheless a gorgeous, gorgeous wine. In 2004 Vigna del Gris contains fruit from both old vines and a recently re-planted section of the vineyard. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2019.

"As Guigal says, the 2004 Cote Rotie Chateau d’Ampuis is "very Burgundian." Forest floor, herb, underbrush, red currant, and sweet cherry notes dominate the aromatics and flavors of this medium-weight, peppery, slightly herbaceous wine. It has turned out to be outstanding, no easy task in a year with record-setting yields and many overly vegetal northern Rhones. This is a sexy, seductive 2004 to enjoy over the next 7-8 years. "