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| Professional Wine Reviews |
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| Wine Advocate |
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| Score: 94 |
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From barrel, the assembled 2007 Coteaux du Languedoc Clos des Truffiers is intensely black-fruited, saline and smoky in the nose, and displays a bitter concentration of fruit skins and palate staining soy. Amazingly plush, viscous, and silken-textured, its intense expression of berries and salt persists in a finish of formidable length, if not quite the complexity or dynamics of the 2006. According to owner Davies, “this will far outdistance the 2006,†and I certainly don’t doubt that it will stand up to a decade of bottle age. Whether it will ever be as riveting as the 2006 or 2005, or entirely avoid creeping alcoholic heat, I am less sure. But then, it isn’t even in bottle yet. And in any event, I cannot imagine someone who collects this wine wanting to miss out on its 2007 interpretation.
From a tiny parcel of nearly forty year old Syrah vines outside Saint Pargoire (not far from Domaine Peyre Rose where Marlene Soria’s profound but very differently-styled Syrahs are crafted), the Clos des Truffiers – owned by importer Jeffrey Davies and managed and vinified by the team from Chateau de la Negly (above all oenologist Claude Gros, who is a minority shareholder) – benefits not just from what has proven to be an exceptional micro-climate, but from exceptionally low yields subjected to extraordinarily rigorous sorting. Long maceration and 26 month aging in new barrels promote the display of sheer density that typifies this wine, yet its most striking feature is what can only be called a palate staining mineral streak to go along with its equally intense fruit. This wine’s occasional resemblance to great Bordeaux is not so surprising, if one considers the inspiration of Davies, long-time Bordeaux resident and negociant, and prime mover in Right Bank wine circles. And, as a complete vertical tasting on this occasion revealed, Clos des Truffiers has the stamina for fascinating bottle development. -- David Schildknecht |
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