Click here to see our up-to-date 2009 Bordeaux Futures offering.
"I hope readers will take a serious look at many of the less prestigious appellations and wines from those areas as they will no doubt represent fabulous bargains in 2009. Given the overall style of the 2009s, which combine creamy, voluptuous textures and sensational fruit-driven opulence with remarkable finesse, precision, purity, and vibrancy, the best of the 'little' wines will be delicious young, as will many of the classified-growths. This is a magical vintage!" -- Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate (April 2010)
After spending seven full days touring Bordeaux and tasting nearly 400 wines from the 2009 vintage (many of them two or three times), we feel we have an excellent handle on this most recent "Vintage of the Millennium."
Plain and simple, 2009 appears to be an excellent vintage. The wines are deep and dark with record tannin levels and high alcohol percentages, which typically makes tasting barrel samples tiresome and difficult. Yet these wines were remarkably easy to taste out of barrel given their velvety soft tannins, high acidity levels, and wonderful freshness that is sure to become a hallmark of this vintage.
It's been said that 2009 is a Left Bank vintage -- think Margaux, Pauillac, St. Julien and St. Estephe -- where Cabernet Sauvignon dominated. In many instances that's true, but not always. Chateau Palmer in Margaux, for example, produced a stunning wine of over 50% Merlot. Chateau Trotanoy in the Pomerol region, a Right Bank wine, crafted a similarly fantastic wine with a high percentage of Merlot. Much of the success of the vintage was in deciding the proper time to harvest the grapes.
In many vintages the rain determines the harvest time. The grapes approach optimum ripeness and eventually there's rain in the forecast and you pick your grapes before the rain has a chance to ruin your harvest. A near perfect growing season in 2009 was filled with warm days and cool nights. We say "near perfect" because a hailstorm in May caused quite a bit of damage on the Right Bank. Mid to late September had almost no rain, though, so deciding when to harvest became THE decision. Pick early and go for ripe, elegant wines or wait a little and go for more power and concentration? With no right or wrong answer it's often a matter of personal preference.
We tasted a fair amount of Right Bank wines -- those from St. Emilion and Pomerol -- that were clearly harvested a little too late. Overripe, almost raisiny fruit, was not uncommon. We probably encountered more uniformity in the Left Bank, but disappointments were apparent there as well. Probably the most common question we've been asked since our return is to which vintage does 2009 compare? It's not an easy question to answer and it's not always fair, but we'll give it a try.
Given the fact that 2005 is the most recent "it" vintage in Bordeaux, comparisons are natural. But as we posted after our first day in Bordeaux, 2009, while an excellent vintage, doesn't seem to be the all-encompassing success story that 2005 was. In 2005 you could pretty much close your eyes, spin around and point and you'd most likely be pointing directly at a great wine. From Left Bank to Right Bank and cheap to expensive, 2005 had it all. The best wines of 2009, though, may be better than their 2005 counterparts, and there are many petit chateaux that we fell in love with that will grace our shelves in the coming years, but you have to be a careful consumer.
Chasing wines with high ratings might help you if you intend to trade wine like a commodity, but with 2009, where classified growths could be quite pricey, we prefer to focus on the smaller wines. There are so many affordable wines -- wines to be drunk -- and this list has the wines released so far that we feel offer excellent value. If you have a particular style of wine that you like, whether that be oaky and rich or fruit forward and a little more elegant, 2009 has it all. Ask us, though, if you're unsure about a particular wine. Highly rated wines are great, but they may not suit your tastebuds.
2009 seems to have the best traits of so many vintages!We've heard 1947, 1961, 1982 and 2005. So which vintage does 2009 remind us of? The answer might be 1989. This excellent, yet often underappreciated vintage, had a similarly fantastic growing season and the wines have similar power and concentration. We found the 2009's to have more freshness, though. This might explain why they're almost drinkable now yet they'll be very long-lived wines! Taken as a whole, at this early stage, 2009 seems to remind us of 1989. To sum it all up, 2009, whether it ever becomes the Vintage of the Millennium or not, will certainly be a great vintage. We're carefully selecting wines to offer you and we'll do our best to obtain anything you may request from us.
A few points about CW's Bordeaux Futures:
1 - All orders are subject to written confirmation 2 - Prices are subject to change 3 - Payment due at time of order. DC sales tax will be collected at time of pickup, at tax rate at time of pickup. There is no sales tax on shipped orders. 4 - Approximate delivery is Fall 2011-Spring 2012 5 - Please inquire for odd sizes. Half Bottles, Magnums, Double Mags and more are available for a small upcharge.
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Click here to see our up-to-date 2009 Sauternes Futures offering.
Varietal: Bordeaux Blend | Location: France - Bordeaux - Médoc
WA 88-90
Quite apart from the name and label, its deep, wonderfully fleshy Cabernet Sauvignon-dominated flavors, and robust yet supple tannic structure really did call to mind the quintessential Englishman's claret, first growth Château Latour in Pauillac; this is almost shocking given the current price of 2009 Château Latour (don't ask). Of course, no one would confuse the two, but one must also say that both wines are definitively Médoc. That gets to the point that the venerable English writers were getting at. There really is something truly special about a well-made Médoc, regardless of official pedigree. The 2009 Château Tour St. Bonnet, to borrow the eloquent words of Edmund Penning-Rowsell, truly has the distinctively Médoc "inner core which keeps the flavor true to the end." While drinking deliciously well now (decant 30 min. in advance), this robustly constructed claret has an exceptional aging potential of 7 to 10 years.
Varietal: Bordeaux Blend | Location: France - Sauternes
"Denis Dubourdieu's other Barsac estate has produced a very similarly rich (153 g/l residual) blend to his Doisy Daene, similarly styled yet with a point more obvious acidity and a softer form of middle-fruit." --Bill Blatch, bordeauxgold.com
Varietal: Bordeaux Blend | Location: France - Sauternes
"Denis Dubourdieu's other Barsac estate has produced a very similarly rich (153 g/l residual) blend to his Doisy Daene, similarly styled yet with a point more obvious acidity and a softer form of middle-fruit." --Bill Blatch, bordeauxgold.com
Varietal: Bordeaux Blend | Location: France - Bordeaux - Premières Côtes de Bordeaux
This is among the first of what I call the "second wave" of 2009 Bordeaux to arrive. Unlike the initial releases, which rely more on grapy fruit for their pleasure, these later releases, which are typically from better vineyards, have been given additional aging in oak barrels to maximize their finesse, complexity, and structure. Clos Bourbon is from one of our favorite winemakers, Catherine d'Halluin, who has deftly aged the wine in 10% new oak barrels to add notable polish and sophistication to this well-crafted 2009. It is drinking well now, but has at least 5 to 7 years of aging potential. -- Ben Giliberti
Varietal: Bordeaux Blend | Location: France - Sauternes - Barsac
"This is a tough call to make, as the wine is still in 14 of the original 17 lots and a prototype blend has not yet been attempted. So we just have to taste all the lots and then do the assemblage in our heads. The main body of the blend will be composed of the highly botrytised pickings of 2nd to 6th October. These lots taste rich yet very fine, almost delicate and extremely florally expressive. They will be blended with the smaller and also finer and lighter first pickings and some but not all of the heavier final ones. My guess is that this is classic Climens: not over-sweet or overstated in any way, all purity and finesse, albeit on a background of rich intensity, which will be slightly less sweet in appearance than '07." Bill Blatch
Varietal: Bordeaux Blend | Location: France - Bordeaux - St.-Julien
When we tasted the 2009 Langoa Barton with Lilian Barton at her office in St. Julien, we were expecting a well-made, delicious wine, but we couldn't have been more impressed! A blend of 54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 34% Merlot and 12% Cabernet Franc, it was deep purple in the glass with aromas of blueberries, blackberries and a hint of vanilla and pepper. Although it had one of the highest tannin levels in the history of the estate, they were smooth and well-integrated already. It is one of the best Langoa's we've ever tasted from barrel.
Varietal: Bordeaux Blend | Location: France - Bordeaux - Listrac
WS 90-93
Listrac's deep gravel soils rival the best of the Haut-Médoc, and this prominent Listrac château makes its wine to a classified growth standard, with the flavors of new oak well-integrated into this dark purple, powerful wine. -- Ben Giliberti